Overview
The Big Island is twice the size of all the other Hawaiian islands combined, with 11 of the world's 13 climate zones within its borders. First-time visitors are often surprised by the driving distances and the dramatic shifts between lava desert, tropical rainforest, and alpine summit. This itinerary covers the essential highlights: Kohala Coast beaches, Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, and the lush Hamakua Coast, based from the sunny Waikoloa resort area.
First-timer essentials: Rent a car (the island has no meaningful public transit). Pack layers for elevation changes (sea level to 9,000+ feet). Bring reef-friendly sunscreen, water shoes, and at least 2 liters of water per person. The Kohala Coast is hot and dry; the Hilo side is cool and wet. Expect to drive 2+ hours between coasts.
Day 1 — Kohala Coast Beaches & Resort Area
8:00 AM
Hapuna Beach — Begin at the Big Island's most famous beach. This half-mile crescent of white sand on the dry Kohala Coast consistently ranks among the top beaches in the state. The water is crystal clear in calm conditions and the sandy bottom makes entry easy for first-timers. Lifeguards are on duty daily. Be aware that the beach drops off steeply and the shorebreak can be powerful, so stay in the shallow zone if you are not a confident ocean swimmer.
Check water quality; this beach generally tests clean.
Parking: $5/vehicle at Hapuna Beach State Park. The lot fills by 10 AM on weekends. Restrooms and showers available.
11:00 AM
Drive 15 minutes south to
A-Bay (Anaehoomalu Bay). This palm-fringed beach in the Waikoloa resort area has calmer water than Hapuna and a gentler entry slope, making it ideal for families and cautious swimmers. The ancient Hawaiian fishponds behind the beach are a fascinating introduction to traditional aquaculture. Sea turtles feed along the north rock shelf most mornings.
Check water quality.
Parking: Free lot at the resort beach access. Restrooms and outdoor showers on site.
Afternoon
Explore the Waikoloa Beach resort area: walk the Kings' Trail petroglyph field (free, 20 minutes, thousands of carved figures in lava rock dating back centuries), browse the Kings' Shops and Queens' MarketPlace, and settle in for sunset at A-Bay, which faces due west for unobstructed ocean horizon views. The sunset here, with palm silhouettes against orange sky, is a classic Big Island image.
IF BROWN WATER IS ACTIVE
The Kohala Coast is arid and rarely affected by brown water. If conditions are poor, visit the petroglyph fields and explore the resort area, then save beach time for when conditions improve. Or: drive 1 hour north to Pololu Valley Lookout for dramatic coastal views.
Day 2 — Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park
7:00 AM
Drive 2.5 hours south from the Kohala Coast to Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park ($30/vehicle, valid 7 days). This is the single most important experience on the Big Island for first-time visitors. Start at the Kilauea Visitor Center for the ranger briefing on current eruption status and trail conditions. The park encompasses two active volcanoes, lava tubes, steam vents, and ecosystems ranging from tropical rainforest to barren lava desert.
10:00 AM
Walk the Crater Rim Trail from the visitor center to the Steaming Bluffs and Sulphur Banks (1 mile, flat, paved). Then drive to the Thurston Lava Tube (Nahuku), a 500-foot walk-through tunnel formed by flowing lava. Bring a headlamp for the unlit extension beyond the main tube. If time and fitness allow, hike the Kilauea Iki Trail (4 miles loop, 2-3 hours), which descends into a crater and crosses a solidified lava lake.
Afternoon
Drive the Chain of Craters Road (19 miles one-way, descending 3,700 feet from the summit to the coast). Stop at the various overlooks and pit craters along the way. The road ends at the Holei Sea Arch, where waves crash against 90-foot cliffs. Pack lunch and plenty of water since there are no food services in the park. Drive back and return to Kohala Coast via Highway 11 (2.5 hours). The drive passes through Kona coffee country; stop at a farm stand for a bag of locally roasted beans.
IF BROWN WATER IS ACTIVE
The volcano is completely inland and unaffected by ocean conditions. Rain actually enhances the experience, with misty rainforest trails and more dramatic steam vents. This is an ideal rain-day activity on the Big Island.
Day 3 — Hamakua Coast Waterfalls & Kona Town
7:30 AM
Drive 1 hour north along the Hamakua Coast (Highway 19) to ʻAkaka Falls State Park ($5 parking). A short, paved loop trail leads to one of the most scenic waterfalls in Hawaiʻi: a 442-foot plunge into a fern-lined gorge. The trail also passes Kahuna Falls (100 feet). This is a quick stop (30-45 minutes) but visually memorable.
9:30 AM
Continue north to Waipiʻo Valley Lookout, where a 2,000-foot-deep valley opens to a black-sand beach far below. The steep 25% grade access road is restricted to 4WD, but the lookout at the top is the main draw. The view of taro patches, waterfalls, and the mile-wide valley floor surrounded by cliffs is one of the Big Island's most iconic sights. Then drive south via Highway 19 to Kailua-Kona (1.5 hours).
Afternoon
Explore historic Kailua-Kona town. Walk Aliʻi Drive along the waterfront, visit Huliheʻe Palace and Mokuʻaikaua Church (the first Christian church in Hawaiʻi), and watch local surfers at the small break in front of the seawall. End with a Kona coffee at one of the cafes along the strip. Drive back to Kohala Coast (40 min) for a final sunset at A-Bay.
IF BROWN WATER IS ACTIVE
This day is mostly inland, so ocean conditions do not matter. Waterfalls are actually more impressive after heavy rain. If you want ocean time, the Kohala Coast typically clears faster than other coastlines.